Photo: Pseudopanax, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons
New Zealand's South Island: a honeymoon of trails and lakes
Sixteen days for two in January: bike parks above Queenstown, a night on Milford Sound, the trails of Wānaka, dawn under Aoraki, stars over Lake Pukaki and the dolphins of Akaroa.
Queenstown
Getting there
Fly into Queenstown, usually via Auckland or an Australian city; the lodge is about fifteen minutes from the airport.
Where you're staying
Hulbert House, a small luxury lodge in a restored Victorian villa from 1887 on the hill above town, with evening canapés and drinks included and a few minutes' walk down to the lake.
- Four nights in a suite with lake views
- Rated 9.8 on Booking.com from about 70 reviews
- NZD 865 to 1,780 a night in the high season; booked direct, longer-stay offers apply in the low season
Photos: hulberthouse.co.nz
Evening
A first walk along the lakefront and dinner in town, with Central Otago pinot noir.
Coronet Peak bike park
The day
Twenty minutes up the road, the ski area of Coronet Peak turns into a summer bike park: the chairlift carries you and the bikes up, and flowing trails bring you down, from easy grade 3 to proper grade 6. Full-suspension bikes from a shop in town.
- Full-day chairlift pass, about NZD 89 each (price to confirm for the 2027-28 season)
- Riding 10:00 to 16:00, and on Wednesdays until 20:00
- Start on the blue trails; the views over the Wakatipu basin come free
Photos: coronetpeak.co.nz
Afternoon
A pinot tasting in the Gibbston Valley on the way back, the cellar doors are fifteen minutes from town.
The lake
The day
A few downhill laps from the Skyline gondola in the morning, the afternoon free by the lake.
Glenorchy
The day
The road along the lake to Glenorchy and a short walk at the head of the valley.
To Te Anau
The day
About two and a half hours to Te Anau on the edge of Fiordland, and a night at Te Anau Lodge, rated 8.9 on Booking.com.
Flagship day
A night on Milford Sound
Day 6 · Wed 12 Jan
The road
The Milford Road before nine, ahead of the coaches: Mirror Lakes, the Homer Tunnel and the drop into the fiord, with time to stop.
- No fuel, shops or phone signal between Te Anau and Milford: fill up the night before
- Coaches reach Mirror Lakes around 10:30; you will be past them
Photos: Wikimedia Commons (Krzysztof Golik, CC BY-SA 4.0; Michal Klajban, CC BY-SA 4.0; W. Bulach, CC BY-SA 4.0)
Where you're staying
The Milford Mariner, RealNZ's overnight boat. It leaves in the afternoon, cruises out to the Tasman Sea and anchors in Harrison Cove once the day boats have gone, with time to paddle a kayak or take the tender boat.
- A private cabin with its own bathroom; afternoon tea, a buffet dinner and breakfast included
- From NZD 699 each on RealNZ's own site; a private cabin costs more than the shared bunk rooms
- Dawn on empty water is the reason to sleep here
Photos: realnz.com
Not a sound
Milford Sound is in fact a fiord: a valley cut by glaciers and flooded by the sea, with walls rising more than a kilometre from the water.
To Wānaka
The day
Breakfast on board, then about four hours to Wānaka and three nights at Lime Tree Lodge, on ten acres outside town.
Bike Glendhu
The day
A day pass at Bike Glendhu, ten minutes from Wānaka: trails from grade 2 to 6 above the lake, about NZD 38 each.
Roys Peak at sunset
The day
A slow morning, then Roys Peak in the late afternoon: a steep climb, a quieter summit than at sunrise and golden light over the lake.
To Aoraki
The day
Over the Lindis Pass to Aoraki/Mount Cook village and two nights at the Aoraki Court Motel, rated 9.2 on Booking.com.
Hooker Valley at dawn
The day
The Hooker Valley Track from the village at six: 10 km return over swing bridges to the lake under Aoraki, before the day visitors arrive.
Lake Pukaki
The day
A short drive to Lakestone Lodge on the shore of Lake Pukaki, adults only, two nights with breakfast and dinner, the mountain across the water.
Stars over Tekapo
The night
The summit tour at the Mount John observatory in the dark-sky reserve, about NZD 219 each.
To Akaroa
The day
About four hours to Akaroa on Banks Peninsula and two nights at Oinako Lodge, a six-room lodge by the harbour.
Hector's dolphins
The day
A small-boat swim with Hector's dolphins, among the smallest dolphins in the world, about NZD 250 each; if none appear, you go again for free.
Home
Getting home
About an hour and a half to Christchurch airport.
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