Lombok, from the surf to the crater rim
Seventeen days from the skyline of Kuala Lumpur to the rim of Mount Rinjani, with Lombok's south coast, a car-free island and Singapore on the way home. Modelled on the trip we took ourselves in June 2024.
Days 1–2 · Kuala Lumpur
Two nights up high in Kuala Lumpur
Getting there
From Europe to Kuala Lumpur, usually with one change in Singapore.
- Take the first afternoon slowly: the point of stopping here is to arrive in Asia gently, not to tick off a city
Where you're staying
Expressionz Professional Suites, Jalan Tun Razak: a one-bedroom serviced apartment high up a residential tower, which we booked through Airbnb.
- The view is the reason to stay: the skyline from the room, and an infinity pool on the 48th floor with the city spread out below it
- Nothing special inside, but very good for the price, and a calm place to get over the flight
Photos: our own trip, June 2024
Our honest take on the city
Kuala Lumpur is huge, spread out and not made for walking.
- If you love skyscrapers it delivers; otherwise two nights is enough
- The best of it is outside the centre
Photos: our own trip, June 2024
The day out
Batu Caves, the Hindu temple caves up a long flight of painted steps just north of the city: a real experience.
- Combine it with a day up to Genting Highlands by cable car, into cooler rainforest air
- Get around by Grab rather than taxi: the app takes international cards, but carry a little cash anyway
Photos: our own trip, June 2024
Dinner
Makan Kitchen, DoubleTree by Hilton, Jalan Tun Razak: our favourite dinner in the city, a buffet of live kitchens with the Petronas Towers lit up across the window.
- Malaysian, Peranakan, Chinese and Indian stations under one roof
- On level 11 of the Intermark, the same road as the apartment
- Hawker stalls are the other half of eating well here
Photos: hilton.com
Days 3–7 · Kuta, Lombok
Five slow days on Lombok's south coast
Getting there
A short flight from Kuala Lumpur to Lombok.
- The airport is in the south of the island, about half an hour from Kuta
Where you're staying
Rascals Kuta Lombok: an adults-only boutique hotel a short walk from the beach, with pools, a spa, yoga and surf lessons.
- Honestly one of the nicest hotels we have ever stayed in: beautiful, with the friendliest staff, excellent breakfasts, and a kitchen good enough that we happily stayed in for lunch and dinner too
Photos: our own trip, June 2024
Why June
June is the start of the dry season: clear skies, calm sea, good visibility for snorkelling. We usually prefer the quieter months even at the risk of worse weather, and in the rainy season, roughly November to March, rain tends to come in short afternoon bursts with the rest of the day beautiful. Prices are far lower and there are far fewer people.
The days
Kuta itself is small, easy and full of places to eat. Kuta's beaches suit every level of surfer: some bays are gentle enough for a first lesson, others are for people who already know what they are doing, so we match the beach to you.
- Get around by scooter if you are comfortable on one; it was half the fun
- Otherwise, a driver costs little
Photos: our own trip, June 2024
The days
The southwest Gilis by boat: a full day on a local boat to Gili Nanggu, Gili Sudak, Gili Kedis and Gili Tangkong, snorkelling between them.
- This was exceptional: the clearest water of the trip and more fish than anywhere else we swam
- Boats leave from Sekotong on the southwest peninsula, a drive from Kuta, so start early
Photos: our own trip, June 2024
Day 8 · Sembalun
North, to the foot of Rinjani
Where you're staying
Family Rinjani Bungalow, Sembalun: simple wooden bungalows run by two brothers, Farid and Bulloh, "Bull", hosts we still talk about.
- Sleeping here the night before is the whole trick: you are minutes from the trailhead instead of leaving the south coast at two or three in the morning
- Rinjani fills the view from the veranda, and the brothers organise the trek
Today
The drive north takes most of the morning, through villages and rice fields.
- Arrive, sit outside, and watch the light go off the mountain you are climbing tomorrow
Flagship day
Mount Rinjani, at your own pace
Days 9–10
Up to the crater rim, and down again
Our private Rinjani trek, from Sembalun with Bull as our guide.
- Going private usually costs little more than joining a group, and it changes everything: your pace, your breaks, when to push and when to stop for the view
- Two porters carried the tents and the kitchen, and the food they cooked on the mountain was incredible
That version is only for the fit: it is well over 2,500 metres of climbing in a day, up to 3,726 metres.
- With a good pace and proper food it is doable, and the view over the volcano and the crater lake, Segara Anak, was unbelievable
- The standard two-day version, summit at sunrise on day two, is there for everyone else
Photos: our own trip, June 2024
Sunset, not sunrise
Most people camp on the rim and leave for the summit at two or three in the morning, for sunrise. We were quick enough to reach the top on the first day, for sunset instead: a fraction of the people, and no alarm in the middle of the night.
Up to the crater rim, and down again
A night on the crater rim: tents pitched on the edge of the caldera, the lake below, the sky enormous.
- The next day, the long walk back down to Sembalun and a third night at the bungalow
Photos: our own trip, June 2024
Worth knowing
Rinjani is a national park: treks are registered at the park office in Sembalun and run with a licensed guide.
- Bring layers, the summit is cold before dawn and after dark
Days 11–14 · Senaru and Gili Air
A waterfall, then four barefoot days on Gili Air
On the way
Tiu Kelep, in Senaru on the north side of Rinjani: a walk through the jungle past a first waterfall, Sendang Gile, to a second, much bigger one.
- We went with a local guide, which costs very little and matters on the river crossings
- Then the harbour at Bangsal, and a short boat across to Gili Air
Where you're staying
Villa Nangka: a small boutique hotel built almost entirely of bamboo.
- Ours was a beautiful open-air bamboo loft, and that is our one warning: open air means the dawn call to prayer from the island's mosque is your alarm clock
- Book one of their closed rooms if you are a light sleeper
The island
Gili Air has no cars; you can walk around the whole island.
- Good food, great snorkelling straight off the beach, and not much else to do, which is the point
- Watch the tides: at low tide the reef gets too shallow to swim over
- Four nights is plenty
Days 15–17 · Lombok, then Singapore
Sasak villages, then two nights in Singapore
A last morning on Lombok
Back across to the mainland and south to the airport, stopping on the way at the traditional Sasak villages of Sade and Ende: thatched houses, weaving, a way of life much older than the resorts.
- Absolutely worth the stop
- Then the flight to Singapore
Where you're staying
PARKROYAL COLLECTION Pickering: a five-star hotel wrapped in terraced sky gardens, between Chinatown and Clarke Quay.
Singapore
Clean, safe and relatively expensive, with attractions done extremely well.
- Distances and heat make it less walkable than it looks, so use the metro
Singapore
Spend an evening around Marina Bay for the skyline, and do not miss Gardens by the Bay, which were truly amazing.
- Leave time at the airport before your flight home: Jewel Changi, a shopping centre built around an indoor waterfall, is a sight in itself
Build this trip
We will start from this one and reshape it around your dates, your group and your pace. Nothing here is a fixed package.
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