Photo: Borvan53, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons
Iceland: the Laugavegur trail and the south coast
Eight days alone in August: four days hut to hut across the highlands, from the coloured hills of Landmannalaugar to the birch woods of Þórsmörk, then glaciers, waterfalls and a farm on the south coast.
Reykjavík
Getting there
Fly into Keflavík; the Flybus runs to the BSÍ bus terminal in about 45 minutes, and the hotel is a short walk from there.
Where you're staying
Kvosin Downtown Hotel, 24 rooms in a building from 1900 on Austurvöllur square, between the parliament and the cathedral, with a small bar downstairs.
- One night; a standard room with a terrace is plenty for one
- Rated 9.1 on Booking.com from about 1,200 reviews
- Collect the food you will carry for four days on the way back from dinner: the huts sell none
Photos: kvosinhotel.is
Evening
Dinner at Skál!, the Bib Gourmand counter of chef Gísli Matt, for modern Icelandic plates and natural wine; then an early night, the bus leaves at seven.
Into the highlands
Getting there
The Highland Bus leaves BSÍ at 07:00 and reaches Landmannalaugar at about 11:30, fording rivers on the last stretch. About 13,500 ISK one way (2026).
The day
First a soak in the hot brook at Landmannalaugar, at the edge of the lava field, then the first stage: up through the coloured hills to Hrafntinnusker, the highest hut on the trail.
- About 12 km, four to five hours; you finish about 500 m higher, but the ups and downs add up to far more
- No water on this stage: fill everything before you leave
- Snowfields linger on this stretch even in August; poles help
Photos: Wikimedia Commons (Chmee2/Valtameri, CC BY 3.0; Syrio, CC BY-SA 4.0)
Why the colours
The hills around Landmannalaugar are rhyolite, a light volcanic rock, stained yellow, red and green by the hot springs that still run through them.
Where you're staying
The Hrafntinnusker hut, run by the Iceland Touring Association, on a ridge of obsidian at over 1,000 metres.
- A bunk in a shared room: bring a sleeping bag
- No shower here, and no food or drinks for sale in any hut
- 17,000 ISK a night in 2026, paid ahead
Photos: fi.is (Iceland Touring Association)
Flagship day
Obsidian and the lake
Day 3 · Mon 16 Aug
The day
Over the last snowfields and the black obsidian, then a long, steep descent off the Jökultungur ridge to the green shores of Álftavatn, the swan lake, with Hattfell standing over it.
- About 12 km, four to five hours; the descent is the hard part, take it slowly
- The first river crossing comes just before the hut: sandals and an unbuckled hip belt
- Check safetravel.is each morning; the forecasts up here change fast
Photos: Wikimedia Commons (Chmee2/Valtameri, CC BY 3.0; Michal Klajban, CC BY-SA 4.0)
Where you're staying
The Álftavatn hut on the lakeshore, with a kitchen, showers and a long evening of light over the water.
- 17,000 ISK a night in 2026
- A five-minute hot shower costs about 1,000 ISK
Photos: fi.is (Iceland Touring Association)
To Emstrur
The day
The longest stage, about 15 km across black sand and past river crossings to Emstrur, where you drop the pack and walk the deep Markarfljót canyon.
Þórsmörk, then the coast
The day
Down through birch woods into Þórsmörk under three glaciers, then the afternoon highland bus out to Hvolsvöllur and a transfer to the farm.
Where you're staying
Skálakot Manor, a family farm turned 14-room hotel under Eyjafjallajökull, for three nights.
On the glacier
The day
A guided three-hour walk on Sólheimajökull with crampons, then Skógafoss after six, when the tour buses have left.
Horses and waterfalls
The day
A morning ride on Icelandic horses from the farm's own stables, then Seljalandsfoss in the evening light.
Home
Getting home
About two and a half hours along the coast to Keflavík.
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