Levadas, scogliere e un canyon di tornanti

Today

A quick empanada stop at Pastelaria Brava Doce on the way inland, then into the valley for the views, stopping for a local poncha wherever looks good. Capelinha de Nossa Senhora, a small chapel reached by a short flight of steps, then coffee in the genuinely cute town of São Vicente.

A stop worth planning around

Espaço Infinito, Seixal: a small curated viewpoint run by a local, with a grappa tasting at the entrance for a small donation.

Lunch

Lunch at Restaurante Seixal Butcher, a genuine experience: choose your skewer inside the butchery, carry it to the grill yourself, hand it over to be cooked.

• The best chicken skewer either couple has ever had

Afternoon

Porto Moniz for the island's famous natural volcanic-rock pools, then Fanal forest on the way back for an atmospheric walk through laurel forest.

• Just wandering into the forest itself is free; the classified PR13 waymarked trail carries its own separate fee (around €4.50 as of 2026), booked online, and you only need that if you're doing the full official route

Afternoon

Weather note: conditions flipped from sunny to rain within about ten minutes on this leg.

• Pack a light waterproof regardless of the morning forecast

Dinner

Cook at the apartment: the grocery store across the street makes this easy after a long day of driving.

Today

Vereda do Larano, a quiet, little-known cliff walk with incredible views and very few other people on the trail (free at time of writing). Ponta de São Lourenço: a walk along the island's dramatic eastern "dragon's tail" headland, likely the single best hike on the island.

On the classic Pico do Areeiro → Pico Ruivo hike

We'd steer around this one: it's now extremely busy with tour groups.

• If the classic stairway photo is a must, do only the first short section, and go in the late afternoon rather than at sunrise, when it's markedly quieter

On the classic Pico do Areeiro → Pico Ruivo hike

For a similar payoff with far fewer people, Pico Grande has no road access to its trailhead, which alone keeps the crowds away, though the trail beyond roughly the 3.5km mark has been temporarily closed as of early 2026, so its current status needs checking before we build it in.

This morning

A short, easy walk through banana fields on RB1 Vereda da Ladeira, worth doing on the way past even with limited time.

• A last wander through Funchal old town
• If the Flower Festival is on, the parades are worth timing around
• Check out, return the car via Move Rent-a-Car at the airport, and depart

This morning

Optional: the Cristiano Ronaldo Museum, mostly trophies with limited context, but cheap enough to be worth a quick visit for football fans.